Canyoneering at Kawasan Falls

Note that this first paragraph is about my trials getting to Kawasan Falls so feel free to skip to the next paragraph

Today I got up bright and early at 5am so I could be ready to go at 6am. I was a bit worried that my driver would not show since I had no heard from him and I could not reach him so I got the phone number of a taxi service from the guy at reception the night before. I waited at the reception until 6:25 before I called and they said they could send a taxi to take me to Osmena Peak, Kasawan Falls, then drop me in Oslob (basically all day) for 3500. I agreed and the driver came about 15 minutes later. About 10 minutes down the road, he stopped to talk to another driver, then said that the road to Osmena Peak was closed and when I suggested Casino Peak as an alternative, he said that was the same road. That was frustrating since if I was only going to Kasawan Falls, I could have taken a tour just to there and back for 2000 and left my luggage safely at the hotel, then taken a bus to Oslob. We went back to my hotel and I checked to see if there had a tour company they knew of that did tours to Kawasan Falls, but they are mostly a diving resort so they did not. Now I was pretty much stuck with my driver who I wasn’t all that crazy about. I was also a bit short on Pesos and only had 5100 left on me. The driver talked me into having him drop me at Kawasan Falls for 1500, leaving my luggage with the tour company, then taking the bus to Oslob. He also wanted to take me to the company he knew was very safe (i.e. the one that would overcharge and he would get a kickback from) and agreed that he would take me to another if I didn’t like it. I told him I read how the government price was 1500 and he tried to say that the price had increased and maybe the information I read was old. Fortunately, the one he tried to turn into waved him on to the next one over (perhaps they were full already) and this one offered 1500 if I wanted to wait an hour for the next group or a private tour for 2000. Since it was 7:45 a private tour also meant we would beat the crowds so I went with that. My annoying taxi driver actually asked if I wanted the full 500 change to which I wanted to say “I am not going to tip you for fleecing me when I had very few options” but I just said yes and took my change. Unfortunately my cell service was non existent on the drive up so I didn’t confirm until later that a taxi ride should have been about 500 from town or 750 from my resort, so maybe 1000 with the back and forth stuff I did in the beginning.

me in rear view mirror on way up

They took my luggage (I had over $3000 inside so I had a TSA lock on it that lets you know if someone uses a TSA key to open it and definitely acted like there was nothing of real value inside). My guide Jake took me up to the top on his motorbike. We took a few pictures, got my offical safety briefing, he paid the entrance fee, and we started canyoneering. It starts with a 45 minute hike going up maybe 100 feet before going down to the water. The water was refreshingly cool. Most of the canyoneering was in the water either walking or swimming, though at least 1/3 of it was on land. My shoes were great at gripping onto wet rocks but they form to the rock so my tender feet looked for flat rocks to step on. My knees also demanded that I ease down using my hands to brace my weight. It sucks getting old!

First we ride up to the top on a motorbike

the starting spot where you can see the path goes up and down a bit first

Ready to start

First we hiked up a little then started down

Then we descended many stairs down

The start of the water canyoneering

The first jump came very early on and was just 2 meters but was still a little scary. I forgot to hold my nose so I got water up it. Otherwise, it went just fine!

Ready for my first jump only 2 meters so okay

Got through the first jump okay

red dragonfly

We saw lots of pretty butterflies and also super pretty dragonflies. The red ones especially look like butterflies with skinny wings! Jake got pictures of the yellow and black but the red were hard to get a picture of so I grabbed one off the web.

black dragonfly

yellow dragonfly

There were so many beautiful scenes in front, behind, above. And we were the only people in sight.

water flowing through the canyon

Pretty underhangs

In the water

The second jump went better as I remembered to hold my nose. Jake noticed a scratch from my nails and reminded me to curl my fingers and hold my nose between them to keep from cutting my face with my fingernails.

More water flowing into beautiful blue pools

Some hard work ahead of me

canyons

swimming in beautiful blue pools

Delicious chicken and pork skewers with rice and a mango

After a bit more hiking, swimming, and wading, we got to about the halfway point where there were five food stalls waiting for use with hot grills and plenty of meat of sticks. I got a chicken skewer from the first and decided I should get something from each of them so I got a pork skewer from the next, the a mango, and finally two chicken skewers for Jake and some rice from the last two. The food was really good. They have a road above this spot where they can bring it all in each day. The skweres were only 50 pesos ($1), the rice 10, the mango 60, and the soda 30. I paid them each 100 explaining that I would have bought more food but couldn’t eat more so that they would not be insulted.

We stopped for a snack halfway through

The food stalls in the middle of the canyon

Last view of the food stalls between the rocks

Before the big jump (4 meters)

After the lunch stop was my biggest jump of 4 meters. The video below will show you how NOT to do this. Going through my mind were “Panic! This one’s really big! It’s really big! Relax, you can do this. Don’t forget to hold your nose. Jake counted to three I have go now. My foot’s stuck, crap!” My toe had gotten tripped up on the rock which tilted me forward. You wouldn’t think that falling 4 meters (12 feet) would hurt that much but it wrenched my neck and shoulders a bit, which went away in a couple of days, but bothered me the rest of the day. My panic definitely contributed along with my desire not to make the distance greater by jumping upwards instead of hopping off the rock.

Still alive

Luckily, the last jump was only 2 meters and I was able to “get back on the horse” for it.

Floating in the canyon

It wasn't all in the water quite a bit was on land too

We got to the main area with lots of people where the canyoneering stops and people head up, but I wanted to see the falls, which is what I came for. Jake said we could hike down but then we’d have to hike back up, which I readily agreed to. It’s definitely good I did the solo tour. Not only did I get Jake’s full attention going through sticky patches, I could go at my own speed and choose to add on sections. At this main area there were children scrambling up to a large boulder then scooting down the sides. Two boys and a girl who saw me and waved. When the last boy got there, the three boys lept off into the water but the girl stayed there for two more minutes before deciding to jump. I could sympathsize with her and was impressed she got her courage up to jump! Jake said they are local kids who live just above the area.

one the of falls

Should I jump

Me at Kawasan Falls

The hike down to the falls was prett quiet. We passed two other groups but were pretty much alone in nature. There’s a large man made waterfall we walked along on top then took pictures below. Finally we reached the lowest falls that were hikable (the typhoon a few months ago has maybe closed off the very bottom one?). Anyways, this one was gorgeous and I got some pictures with it and in it. It was amazing to have it all to ourselves without the tons of crowds that are normally here or even the handful of people that might be here later in the day.

I made it

Kawasan Falls the destination

Me floating at Kawasan Falls

View from above the falls

The hike back up was some good exercise and I was reminded how much I need to get in shape before my Nepal trek. When we got back to the main area, we saw the kids again. They were going up to the rock and Jake called them over to take a picture with me. This time the girl and boy jumped off right away and came over for pictures. The boy is Mai and the girl is Jessa.

Kids who live above the falls and play here Mai and Jessa

Other people canyoneering after me

The last hike up went pretty smoothly and then we hired a motorbike for 100 pesos ($2) to take us up to the starting point where Jake’s bike was.

Motorbike that took us back up to where we started

Chicken and shrimp both overcooked

Once back at the tour company, they made me some lunch. The chicken and shrimp were adeqaute (a bit chewy); however the mango and banana made up for it. They were excellent! I tipped Jake $10 since he did such an amazing job. I then asked how to take the bus. Apparently the bus is now a bus, then a tricycle across the bridge which buses can’t do then another bus. I was unclear if this included the transfer at Bato. The typoon and floods in December took out the main bridge and also large sections of road are washed out as well (see pics below).

The mango and banana were amazing

The food area at the tour company

Open grate for floor

The whole group then brainstormed different ways to get me to Oslob. First they thought a friend of theirs might be coming this way, then Jake thought he could take me on his motorbike but my suitcase didn’t fit in front. Finally, they called Jake’s dad who is a tricycle driver and for $20 he gave me a ride to Oslob. His mom came along as well. Either for company or ballast to balance me and my luggage on the other side, I’m not sure. The roads were indeed rough and in several sections there was only one lane so traffic was stopped with one way traffic. The tricylce is pretty nifty. They basically weld this carriage to the motorcycle. I saw several variations in passing traffic so there seem to be individually made or at least locally made. It’s quite a long journey for a tricycle so I was worried I would break Jake’s dad’s tricycle going along the bumpy roads sometimes on the dirt and rocks, but we got there!

Jake's parents on the ride to Oslob

If you don't have orange cones, use coconut tree stumps

Road partially washed out from December typhoon

woman leading goats doiwn the street

Jakes parents and their tricycle

Governor Gwen Garcia

I love the fact that the women here are strong. It is election season and the uncontested governor of Cebu is a woman and several candidates for mayor and congress are women. How do I know? They take their elections seriously here. It’s a Friday afternoon and it must be parade day because we passed 3 different city mayor/other officials parade consisting of trucks with people in the back, tricycles (motorcycles with enclosed sidecars), vans, and tons (hundreds) of motorcylcles. The last city even had two drum band trucks and an LGTB truck supporting their choice. It was interesting though we didn’t like the extra 25 minutes of traffic it came with! Once at my hotel, the Oslob parade came by (the third one we had passed on the way in) and I got some video of it. (A few days later I found out that elections are still a few months away, but Cebu campaigns like this every weekend. I’m not sure about other islands, but Palawan is not as enthusiastic.)

Trying to drive amidst a sea of campaigners and part of the road damaged and closed

Endless line of motorcycles campaigning

Casa Bonita Inn 2 bathroom

My little 2 star hotel was actually quite nice, 2.5 stars at least by US standards. They have been renovating it seems as when I got there they debated whether to put me on the second or third floor. When I said I wanted a nice bathroom, both ladies firmly said “third floor.” There were no stairs but the young woman who took me to my room carried my 40 pound suitcase up with ease. It indeed had a nice bathroom, was super clean, and even had AC! Within 15 minutes I was nice and cool. The sheets were perhaps the nicest I had seen, better than some of the 5 stars I have stayed in. They were satiny white on white striped. There was also a balcony that faced the street and I was able to watch the parade from there. There was even a pretty window on the bathroom door!

casa bonita bathroom door

Casa Bonita Inn 2 room

Cute baby and helpful people at BBQ

The ATM below was out of order but there was one ½ kilometer down the road. Unfortunately that one told me it could not complete my transaction and it was “closed.” So either it doesn’t like my card or it is out of money. That made whale shark viewing a bit tougher since I only had 400 pesos left. I got some grilled meat from the little stand next to my hotel and convinced them to let me pay for my meal (80 pesos for the chicken and 10 for the rice so less than $2!) with $5 and get 150 pesos change so I would have enough for the whale shark. They are doing half off (500 pesos) to get tourists back (normally 1000). They also gave me instructions on how to catch the correct bus in the morning to get to the airport on time after seeing the whale sharks and changing money at the money exchange. Everyone here is so helpful!

BBQ next to Casa Bonita