Ambalaphuza, the backwaters of Kerala

look ma, I'm negative

The next morning I was to travel from Varkala to Ambalapuzha via train. I used my first home Covid test to make sure I was still negative (I was, yay!) and had breakfast, a glass of watermelon juice and my favorite porridge with banana and honey. I went to pay my bill at about 9:20 and inquired about how to pay the taxi. Around 9:30 they figured out that there is no taxi and the owner would take me. I paid my bill and by 9:34 we were on the way. I stopped by the pharmacy to get my pills, which only took 2 minutes, then got to the station. It took about 5 minutes to figure out where the ticket office was and once I got there, the lady said tickets were closed for the train I wanted and I could only get tickets for the 8pm train.

me on the train

Apparently you have to buy tickets an hour before the train comes (which the guys at the restaurant did not know as they said I could just buy here 15 minutes before the train…new Covid rules?). She referred me to another guy who said it was not possible to buy a ticket but I could get on the train and pay there. Whew! I did not get a seat in the private cars, but I have a nice little window seat with no one across from me. I had to pay a 250 rupee fine ($3.35) for my 90 rupee fare, but at least I made it! The guy across from me was staring for awhile. I’m not sure if it was because he was wondering what a “rich” American is doing in the cheap seats or whether he is wondering what the hell happened to my face. Now I just have to make sure I get off at the right stop.

waiting for train to pass

man selling chai tea

countryside

train employee selling food

Anju and mother

I did manage to get off at the correct stop. A young woman and her mother got off there too and confirmed that this was indeed where I wanted to exit since most people get off at Alleppey, the next stop. We then tried to figure out how to get to the tuk tuk drivers and they spotted an overpass to the other side of the tracks. Up a bunch of stairs. I again cursed myself for failing to ask Doubletree to hold my suitcase for me. It weighs about 40 pounds. I also have a backpack on and a light shoulder bag with food and some souvenirs. I followed them to the stairs, adjusting my shoulder bag so I can get a good grip on the suitcase. They pause on the stairs, checking to see if I need help, but I manage to heft my suitcase with no major issues.

selfie with Anju

stairs I had to lug my luggage up

helping me get a tuk tuk

Once at the top, I can wheel it again and going down the other side I just reverse rolled it down each step one at a time. They stopped again at the bottom and turned to check on me. It was so sweet of them looking after me like mothers with a duckling. I really wanted to take out my phone and take a picture of their expressions, but since they were waiting for me that seemed wrong. Once outside I did take their picture and the girl, Anju, wanted a selfie with me so I got one with them also. Then we went to the tuk tuks and they helped me, talking to the driver about where I needed to go since they had heard of Ayana’s homestay (small town). I loaded my bags and away I went. I knew it would be rude to tip them, but fortunately at the last minute I realized I could pay for their tuk tuk so I ran back and caught them before their driver took off. We actually passed each other a few times on the road waving happily at each other before my route split off the main road. The people here are so friendly and kind!

street of ambalapuhza 1

boat coming to get me

Ayana’s homestay is on the other side of the waterway, so my tuk tuk dropped me off at the indicated location and I called. They sent a boat over though I couldn’t imagine where he would land. There was a dock on the other side of a small waterway and I sincerely hoped I was not supposed to be there. Luckily, the boat came over and sidled up to some hidden rocks that made a simple platform and I managed to hand him all my luggage and get on without falling in. Everything gets ferried across in these narrow boats. The next day I saw them take a large 3 foot high appliance box across. Two men sat holding it then lifted it to 3 more men waiting on shore while the boat operator held the boat still!

the ride across

hosts

It was very nifty riding across the waterway to my accommodations. It’s a large white house sitting perfectly on the shore, with traditional architecture such as a mini courtyard in the center. Long ago these were open air to give light and collect rainwater. They also served as meeting places with the head of the household to discuss issues. Now it more decorative than useful. The guestrooms are simple but with all necessary items including the hose attachment for the toilet. Unfortunately, there is no garbage pickup in the backwaters so you pack out everything you bring in, which I think means no toilet paper since there is none in the bathroom and no trash can. That’s okay, I can manage for 2 days. Bonus though, it has A/C which is handy in the afternoon heat.

mini courtyard

I had lunch, which was 5 dishes and pappadams (which I love! Fried, light and airy, what’s not to love). There was also dahl, fish curry, thoran, and rice. It was delicious and only one dish was a bit too spicy. I wanted to do a boat tour and kayaking. The boat tour was 1000 for an hour or he said I could do two hours. I asked the price of 2 hours and he said 2000. I was thinking 2000 is about 60 bucks, which is pretty steep for India, but then realized it’s rupees not baht, so I busted out my calculator and saw that 2000 rupees is under $27. What a deal! He suggested a 4:30 tour so that I catch the 6:15 sunset. Perfect!

they brought me chai tea a few times a day

It is hot out here and there is also no wifi so I decided to take an afternoon nap until it was time for my cruise. After my nap they served me chai tea! The boat ride was super cool! We went down a small waterway with houses and sometimes roads along it. When they hear the larger tourist boat motoring through, the people we passed mostly stopped, looked up, and waved. Or at least returned my wave. One grumpy guy did a half wave, half “leave me alone” gesture. The kids were the ones who got into it the most, sometimes shouting hellos and frantic waving. One particularly hip kid even did a hang loose sign. The whole experience reminded me of bicycling in Tahaa, exchanging friendly greetings with the locals.

nice carving of last supper

We stopped at the local attraction of the Buddha statue that an angry elephant knocked over and broke. They placed in it a white structure for protection and there appear to be visitors who light incense sticks around it. We also stopped at St. Mary’s church, which has a grotto. I’m not sure what that is but I know fishermen have them. It looked like a giant misshapen rock to me. We also saw a large variety of sea birds. The sunset was beautiful! It’s so nice over the water. Afterwards, we cruised by a religious celebration of some sort with people lined up along the bank single file and a small group of six men beating drums and singing. I caught a video of a girl and boy waving. The boy stuck out his tongue and made funny faces, but I did not reciprocate.

Bhudda broken by angry elephant

St. Marys Church

the grotto

boy fishing

sunset one the water

big ceremony of some sort

geese on way to swim

The backwaters have no much variety of life on them. There were simple houses, which looked like simple cement structures, regular houses, up to fancy resorts. Several small places of worship were along the sides and on the main waterways were also stores with larger docks. At one house on the small waterway, I saw three geese walking apparently headed for a swim because 20 minutes later, I saw them coming up steps out of the water and ducking back under the gate headed home!

geese returning from swim

simple cement houses

fancy schmancy house

fancy resort

woman doing laundry

cool bridge

Mr. Joy leaving with his tour boat

first dinner

When I got back, the post sunset view was also incredible. I saw in front of the house enjoying the view. Dinner was at 8:30. This time there were again 4 dishes: a spicy coconut soup, rice, chicken, and potatoes. She also had fresh made chapati, which was wonderful. The food was all excellent, even the too spicy coconut soup which I had over the rice. Tomorrow after my 4am math dept meeting I will go kayaking in the predawn/sunrise hours.

sunset through front door

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